Hebrides 2019 - Prep Part 1
I'm planning a trip to the Hebrides so I need to prep the bike for the journey. It's going to be a long one. First thing I need to do is change the tyres. The rear is nearing the limit on the tread and the front is perishing.
I decided to keep with the tyres that were on the bike when I bought it, as they seem very good for road use. They are Avon Road Rider AM26. I order a pair in the size fitted to the bike (a little bigger than stock, but the right diameter) from eBay.
Fitting the tyres wasn't difficult, but it was time consuming. It definitely helps to do it on a warm day. The first tyre I changed was a pig to remove and fit the new one. The second tyre I did on a much nicer day and it went so much easier because the tyre was warm and more flexible. Or maybe I had learnt from the first.
I bought a combined truing / balancing stand. The bike doesn't go that fast (only a 125) but I will be spending 8+ hours a day at maximum speed getting up to Scotland and also on the way back, so I want to minimise the vibrations as much as possible.
The stand took longer than expected to arrive, so I had been riding the bike with unbalanced wheels in the meantime. So I had to jack the bike up and take the wheels off to balance them.
Front wheel first.
One thing I had checked was if the stand would work with my wheels. It's a lightweight bike, so the parts are on the light duty end of things. The front axel is 12mm diameter, and most stands I could find easily available didn't support a wheel like that. So I bought an extra part for balancing lighter wheels.
It wasn't very expensive. The rear wheel has a larger axel and could use the parts that came with the stand.
Fits like a charm!
Once the wheel was on the stand, I could start balancing it. It's not very hard, the instructions with the stand were pretty clear and concise.
This is after I've balanced the wheel. Basically, you spin the wheel and mark where it stops (make sure to use the same reference points each time, I used the bottom of the wheel, and the front of the vertical part of the stand). Do this several times (I did it three times for each wheel) and as long as they are all in the same place (or very close) you have found the heaviest part of the wheel (at the bottom).
Add weight to the top of the wheel. On the weight, only peel the sticky pad backing part way, as you may have to replace or even remove the weight in the next step). Then position the wheel with the weight at either the 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position, and let go.
If the weight moved to the bottom you have too much weight there, if it moves to the top you have too little. The weights I used were iron (not lead) and came in 5g and 10g sizes. In the end I used 25g on this wheel. You know it's balanced if the wheel stays still when you let go with the weight at 3 or 9 o'clock, as shown in the photo above.
Whilst I have the front wheel off, I check the caliper. I rebuilt it and replaced the pads about 4,000 miles ago. It's a bit dirty, but looks good otherwise.
I give it a good clean with some brake cleaner and a brush.
Back on the bike and looking good. Next the rear wheel.
Same process as before.
Same amount of weight as the front wheel, 25g. I check the rear brake whilst I'm at it too, but that fine. I rebuilt it at the same time as the front.
All done!
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